Questions to Ask Any Roofing Contractor

How to use this checklist

This guide is a homeowner due-diligence framework. Read through the 15 questions before your first quote appointment so you know what to ask and what answers to expect. Bring a printed copy of the list to the appointment and write the contractor's answers in the margin. The questions are ordered roughly the way a quote conversation actually flows.

Local Roofing Help does not credential, certify, or warrant any specific contractor. Every U.S. state already runs a contractor licensing board that publishes a public license-lookup portal, and every legitimate carrier issues a certificate of insurance on request. The questions below point you at those primary sources so you can confirm the answers yourself. The state did the credentialing work; your job is to ask for the documents and check the portals.

Two more notes before the list:

Get three quotes, not one. A single quote is a price quote. Three quotes are a comparison. The questions below get more useful when you can score three contractors on the same answers side by side.

Take time to decide. A reputable contractor will hold the quote open for at least 30 days. A "sign today" pressure pitch is a red flag. The right roof can wait a week while you check references and verify the license.

1. State contractor license number

Ask: "What is your state contractor license number, and what classification does it cover?"

Why: Almost every state requires roofers to hold a contractor license. The license number is your access key to the state's public records: complaint history, disciplinary actions, bond status, and the legal name attached to the license. License classifications vary by state (some have a specific roofing classification, others use a general residential contractor classification). The classification has to match the work.

What to expect: A real license number you can write down. A legitimate contractor knows the number from memory or has it printed on the truck, the business card, and the estimate.

How to confirm: Search your state's contractor licensing board portal. Examples: California CSLB, Texas TDLR, Florida DBPR. Most state portals return active status, license history, complaints, and bond status in under a minute.

Red flag: "We use our parent company's license," "license is pending," or "no license required in this state." The first two are usually false; the third is true in only a handful of states, and even there a state business registration is required.

2. General liability and workers compensation insurance

Ask: "Can you send me current certificates of insurance for general liability and workers compensation, listing me as the certificate holder?"

Why: General liability covers property damage caused by the crew. Workers compensation covers crew injuries on your property. Without either, you the homeowner can be held financially responsible for a crew member who falls off the roof or a falling shingle that breaks a neighbor's window.

What to expect: An actual certificate (called an ACORD form) sent directly from the contractor's insurance broker to you, naming you as the certificate holder. The general liability limit is typically $1 million per occurrence; workers compensation has no dollar limit (it pays statutory workers compensation benefits).

How to confirm: Call the broker's number printed on the certificate to confirm the policy is current. The certificate's effective date and expiration date should both bracket your project window.

Red flag: A certificate emailed from the contractor (rather than from the broker), an expired policy, a workers compensation exemption ("we don't need workers comp because the owner does the work"), or a refusal to add you as certificate holder. Some states permit sole-proprietor workers compensation exemptions; verify with your state's insurance department before accepting that answer.

3. Manufacturer certification

Ask: "Are you a manufacturer-certified installer for the shingle line you are proposing?"

Why: Major shingle manufacturers (GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, Malarkey) run installer certification programs that require training, install volume, and sometimes financial bonding. Certification unlocks the manufacturer's longer system warranties (often 25 to 50 years on labor and materials together) that standard product warranties do not cover.

What to expect: A specific program name. The common tiers:

• GAF Master Elite (top GAF tier, limited to roughly 2 percent of U.S. roofing contractors)
• Owens Corning Platinum Preferred (top Owens Corning tier)
• CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster (top CertainTeed tier)
• Malarkey Emerald Pro Premium (top Malarkey tier)

How to confirm: Each manufacturer maintains a public contractor-lookup page. Search the contractor name or business address on the manufacturer's site to confirm active certification.

Red flag: "Certified" without a specific program name, or a claim to be certified by a manufacturer the contractor's online presence does not corroborate. The lookup takes 30 seconds; do it.

4. Years in business

Ask: "How long has your company been operating under its current legal name in this state?"

Why: Contractor failure rates are highest in the first three years. A business under three years old carries higher risk of insolvency before any warranty claim period closes. The "current legal name in this state" qualifier matters because contractors who shut down a business in one state and reopen in another sometimes carry over the marketing while resetting the legal entity.

What to expect: A specific year, plus the registered legal entity name. Cross-check against the state's business registry (every state runs a free business-entity lookup through the Secretary of State).

Red flag: A long-tenure claim that does not match the state's business registry. A roofing company on its third or fourth registered entity in five years is a pattern, not a coincidence.

5. Three local references from recent jobs

Ask: "Can you give me three local homeowner references from jobs completed in the last 60 days?"

Why: Recent local references are the most predictive signal you can get on quality. A 60-day window catches the period when leaks, cleanup issues, and warranty problems usually surface; older references are filtered for the ones that went smoothly. Local means within a reasonable drive of your home so the soil, climate, and code environment match.

What to expect: Three names, addresses (or cross-streets), and phone numbers. The contractor should confirm these are recent customers who agreed to be contacted.

How to confirm: Call all three. Ask: did the crew clean up daily, did the project finish in the promised window, were there change orders and how were they handled, would you hire them again, can I drive by and look at the roof from the street. A reference who hesitates or gives short answers is a signal.

Red flag: References from outside your metro, references from "older jobs," refusal to provide phone numbers, or a single reference instead of three.

6. Detailed written estimate

Ask: "Will the estimate list line items for tear-off scope, decking allowance, underlayment grade, ice and water shield linear feet, ventilation, flashing details, shingle brand and product line, warranty tier, permit fee, and dump fee, with a per-sheet decking replacement rate?"

Why: An itemized estimate is the only document you can actually compare across three contractors. A lump-sum bid hides where the money goes and makes apples-to-oranges comparison impossible. The line items above are the minimum set; if any is missing, the contractor is leaving open scope that becomes a surprise charge later.

What to expect: A written estimate (PDF or printed), at least two pages, with each line broken out and priced. The How to Read a Roofing Estimate guide walks every line item and what to ask about each.

Red flag: A one-page lump-sum quote, "we will work out the details once we get up there," or an estimate without a per-sheet decking replacement rate (decking is the single most common source of end-of-job surprise charges).

7. Manufacturer and workmanship warranty

Ask: "What manufacturer warranty tier will I receive on the new shingles, and what is your workmanship warranty in writing?"

Why: There are two distinct warranties on every roof. The manufacturer warranty covers shingle defects; the workmanship warranty covers install errors. Both have to be in writing, and both have different exclusions.

What to expect:

• Manufacturer warranty: The product-warranty tier (typically a lifetime limited warranty against manufacturing defects) plus, where applicable, the manufacturer's system warranty (covers both materials and labor for 25 to 50 years, requires a certified installer and a full system install of compatible accessories).
• Workmanship warranty: The contractor's labor warranty on the install itself. Common ranges are 5, 10, 15, and 25 years. Longer is usually correlated with manufacturer certification.

How to confirm: Ask for the actual warranty document (the manufacturer publishes them as PDFs on their website). Read the exclusions. Confirm the workmanship warranty is on contractor letterhead, with the contractor's legal entity name and the start date.

Red flag: "Lifetime warranty on everything" (impossibly vague), a warranty that excludes "all leaks" (the most common claim type), or a workmanship warranty that ends when the contractor changes business entities.

8. In-house crew or subcontractor

Ask: "Will the install be performed by your direct W-2 employees or by a subcontractor crew?"

Why: Both models exist. W-2 crews are typically more consistent because the contractor controls hiring, training, and supervision. Subcontractor crews can be excellent (many lifelong roofers run independent crews on contract) but the contractor's quality control depends on the subcontractor relationship. Neither model is wrong on its own; you want to know which one you are buying.

What to expect: A direct answer. If subcontractor: how long has the contractor used this specific crew, and is the crew covered by the contractor's workers compensation policy or its own.

Red flag: Evasion on the question, or a subcontractor crew without its own workers compensation. If the contractor's workers comp does not cover the subcontractor and the subcontractor does not carry workers comp itself, the homeowner is exposed if a crew member is injured.

9. Permit and final inspection responsibility

Ask: "Who pulls the building permit, and who is responsible for scheduling the final inspection?"

Why: Most jurisdictions require a building permit for any reroof. The permit triggers a final inspection that verifies the install meets code. The contractor should pull the permit and schedule the inspection; a contractor who asks the homeowner to pull the permit is shifting code-compliance liability onto the homeowner.

What to expect: "We pull the permit, we schedule the inspection, and we provide you with the signed-off permit at completion." The permit fee should appear as a separate line item on the estimate.

Red flag: "You can pull the permit yourself to save money," "no permit needed for a reroof in this jurisdiction" (rarely true), or no permit-fee line on the estimate.

10. Payment schedule

Ask: "What is your payment schedule? How much is the deposit, what triggers each progress payment, and when is the final payment due?"

Why: Payment schedule is one of the strongest signals of contractor stability. A contractor who demands a large upfront deposit is either undercapitalized (a solvency risk) or planning to fund a different job with your deposit (a delivery risk). A reasonable schedule ties payment to delivery milestones the homeowner can verify.

What to expect: A common schedule is one-third at signing or material delivery, one-third when materials are on site or tear-off begins, and one-third at completion after the punch list walk and any final inspection. The deposit should not exceed 33 percent of the contract total under most state guidance (some states cap it lower). Many state contractor licensing boards publish a deposit cap; check yours.

Red flag: A deposit demand above 50 percent, "we need cash for materials before we can order," or full payment due before the install starts.

11. Property protection plan

Ask: "How will you protect my landscaping, gutters, AC condenser, satellite dishes, windows, and driveway during the tear-off?"

Why: A tear-off generates falling debris, dropped nails, and crew foot traffic. Without an explicit protection plan, landscaping gets crushed, AC condensers get dented by falling shingles, gutters get bent by ladders, and driveways get scratched by debris drag-out. The cost of repairing this damage can run into the thousands.

What to expect: Specific measures. Tarps over landscaping and AC units, plywood over delicate plantings, ladder standoffs to prevent gutter damage, perimeter tarps to catch debris before it hits the driveway, and a stated protocol for moving vehicles and patio furniture out of the work zone before tear-off begins.

Red flag: "We are careful, don't worry about it," or no written protection language in the contract.

12. Cleanup process

Ask: "What is your daily and final cleanup process, and is dump and disposal fees included?"

Why: Tear-off debris is the second-largest source of post-project homeowner complaints (after surprise change orders). A magnet sweep of the perimeter at the end of each day catches dropped nails before they reach feet, tires, and pet paws. Final cleanup should leave the site in the condition the crew found it.

What to expect: Daily perimeter magnet sweep, tarp-covered debris pile or on-site dumpster, dump fees included in the estimate (separately line-itemed), and a final magnet sweep plus walk-through with the homeowner before final payment.

Red flag: "We clean up at the end," dump fees billed extra "depending on the load," or no magnet-sweep language.

13. Project timeline and weather contingency

Ask: "What is the install timeline, and how do you handle weather delays?"

Why: Most asphalt reroofs are one to three days of on-roof work. Weather windows matter because installing in rain or below the shingle manufacturer's minimum temperature voids the warranty. The contractor's weather contingency plan tells you whether they will tarp an in-progress roof properly or leave you exposed to a leak.

What to expect: A specific install window, a stated minimum-temperature threshold for the shingle line, and a tarp-and-secure protocol if weather interrupts mid-install. Most experienced contractors do not start a tear-off if the forecast shows rain inside the install window.

Red flag: No weather contingency, "we install in any weather," or a willingness to start a tear-off the day before a forecast storm.

14. Change-order process

Ask: "If you find conditions during the install that change the scope (extra decking, hidden flashing damage, structural surprises), what is the change-order approval process?"

Why: Almost every reroof generates at least one change order. The single most common one is decking replacement beyond the included allowance. Without a written change-order process, the contractor can present surprise charges at the end of the job that the homeowner has no negotiating room to dispute.

What to expect: A written change order signed by the homeowner before any scope increase work begins. The change order should specify the additional scope, the cost, and the impact on the timeline. The change order should reference the per-sheet decking replacement rate already in the estimate so there are no surprises.

Red flag: "We just bill the actuals at the end," no written change-order process, or refusal to call the homeowner before performing additional work.

15. BBB rating and complaint history

Ask: "What is your Better Business Bureau rating, and how do you handle homeowner complaints?"

Why: The Better Business Bureau is not the only consumer-protection signal, but it is a free public record of complaints and how the contractor responded. A contractor with a long unresolved-complaint history is unlikely to handle your future warranty claim well.

What to expect: An accredited BBB profile with an A or B rating, plus a brief description of how the contractor handles complaints (typically: first attempt at direct resolution, then a manager escalation, then a refund or rework offer if the issue is the contractor's fault).

How to confirm: Search the BBB business lookup for the contractor's legal name and address. Read the complaint history. A small number of complaints is normal for a high-volume contractor; the pattern of resolution matters more than the count.

Red flag: No BBB profile, a profile under a different legal name, or a pattern of unresolved complaints.

What should I check before signing a roofing contract?

The signing-day checklist is short. Run the 15 questions above one by one. Get the answers in writing. Cross-check the license number on the state lookup portal yourself rather than trusting a screenshot. Confirm the certificates of insurance are dated within the last 12 months and list the homeowner as a certificate holder. The cost of one hour of due diligence is small compared to the cost of unwinding a bad contract.

How do I know if a roofing contractor is licensed?

State contractor licensing lookup portals: California CSLB, Florida DBPR, Texas TDLR (note Texas does not license roofers at the state level; verify through liability and workers compensation certificates plus the TDI complaint database), Colorado DORA, Washington L&I. For any other state, search "[state name] contractor license lookup" or visit the state's department of consumer affairs website.

Red flags that mean walk away

The 15 questions above are due diligence. These five signs mean the contractor is not the right call regardless of how favorable the answers sound:

1. Door-knocker after a storm with a "we were in the neighborhood" pitch. This is the storm-chaser pattern. See Storm Chaser Fraud After Storm for the full pattern and how to spot it.
2. Pressure to sign today. A real quote is good for at least 30 days. A "today only" discount is a sales technique, not a savings.
3. Insurance-claim handling that asks the homeowner to sign an assignment of benefits (AOB). AOB transfers the homeowner's insurance claim rights to the contractor. It has a place in some states but it is heavily restricted in others (Florida and Texas reformed AOB law in the last five years specifically because of contractor abuse).
4. Cash-only or check-only payment with no contract. A real contractor accepts financing, credit cards, and written contract terms. Cash-only without a written contract is a tax-evasion signal in the lighter cases and a fraud signal in the heavier ones.
5. Refusal to provide any of the documents the questions above ask for. A real contractor has the license number, the certificates of insurance, the warranty documents, and the references at the ready. Hesitation across two or more of these is a pattern.

Related reading

The contractor-selection question sits inside the larger replacement decision:

• Storm Chaser Fraud After Storm covers the door-knocker and AOB-pressure patterns specifically.
• How to Read a Roofing Estimate walks every line item that appears on a real written quote.
• Roof Replacement Timeline (Day by Day) walks the full project from contract through final inspection.
• Tear-Off vs Overlay covers the install-method choice the contractor will recommend.
• Insurance Adjuster Roof Meeting Checklist covers how to coordinate the contractor and the carrier's adjuster on a claim job.
• How to File a Roof Insurance Claim covers the claim-side workflow that runs alongside the contractor selection.
• Roof Insurance Claim Appeal covers the appeal path when the carrier and the contractor's scope disagree.

For the roof replacement service hub, see Roof Replacement. For an inspection-only visit before any quotes, see Roof Inspection.

FAQ

What questions should I ask a roofing contractor?

Fifteen, in writing: state license number, current general liability and workers compensation certificates, manufacturer certification level, years in business, three recent local references, detailed written estimate, manufacturer and workmanship warranty terms, in-house crew or subcontractor, permit and final inspection responsibility, payment schedule, property protection plan, cleanup process, project timeline, change-order process, and BBB rating with complaint history.

How do I check a roofer's license?

Each state runs a public contractor license lookup portal through the state's contractor licensing board. Search the license number or the business name on the portal. The lookup returns active status, license history, complaints, and bond status in under a minute. Examples: California CSLB, Texas TDLR, Florida DBPR.

What is a manufacturer certification and why does it matter?

A program where the shingle manufacturer (GAF, Owens Corning, CertainTeed, Malarkey) confirms a contractor has met training, install volume, and quality requirements. Certification unlocks the manufacturer's longer system warranties (often 25 to 50 years on labor and materials together) that standard product warranties do not cover. The top tiers are limited to a small percentage of U.S. roofing contractors.

What is a fair deposit for a roof replacement?

A common pattern is one-third at signing or material delivery, one-third when materials are on site or tear-off begins, and one-third at completion. The deposit should not exceed 33 percent of the contract total under most state guidance. A demand above 50 percent up front is a solvency or delivery risk, and many state contractor licensing boards publish a deposit cap (check yours).

Who should pull the building permit?

The contractor. The permit triggers the final inspection that verifies the install meets code. A contractor who asks the homeowner to pull the permit is shifting code-compliance liability onto the homeowner. The permit fee should appear as a separate line item on the written estimate.

How long should the workmanship warranty be?

Common ranges are 5, 10, 15, and 25 years. Longer warranties are typically correlated with manufacturer certification. The warranty document has to be on contractor letterhead, with the contractor's legal entity name and the start date. Read the exclusions before signing; a warranty that excludes "all leaks" is not actually a workmanship warranty.

This guide was written by the Local Roofing Help Editorial Team and reviewed by a licensed roofing contractor. Last reviewed: 2026-05-26. This is general information, not legal advice. Want a local roofer to walk your roof? Talk to a local roofer in our network by phone.